A Conclusion

8 months ago I arrived here, in Provence, and more specifically in the sleepy market town of Apt with Mum and Dad, and I would be lying if I didn't say I was slightly horrified. The prospect of my year abroad was not something that I was willing to think about at the time, and the moment of stepping off the train in Avignon, filled me with dread and fear at what was coming next, and going it alone.

my first view of Apt from the apartment

When I got here, I was slightly numb. I remember turning off the lamp in my little room, miles from home, miles from anyone I knew, turning over in the narrow bed, starring at the wall, and feeling totally numb at the prospect of seven months away from home. But time carried on around me, and as the numbness subsided there wasn't much time to think about the horror of what I was doing, and everyday was a constant discovery. 

and my lovely warm inviting bedroom

Because life is so different here. It has been a constant source of amazement, that the french, our closest neighbours almost, do things so differently. From the non existence, and lack of importance of wifi, the sleepy afternoon siestas, the shops being closed more often than open, the huge importance and event of the Saturday market, life in the south of France is rather how one might imagine, and idealise it, yet living it is another thing all together. 

lonely January in Apt

What I have learnt:
Life in the south of France is like stepping back in time. Family time is important- bank holidays, Sundays don't necessarily cater to the tourist trade- everything closes down so more time can be spent 'en famille'. Wifi is not important. Children spend much less time on the computer, there are fewer who use facebook, the focus is music, sport and family activities. The stereotype that the french don't like to work is not true- I have met some of the most hardworking people here, yet they all know how to unwind, and maximize on their time not working. 

Meal times are endless. As a general rule you start with an aperitif of wine, crisps etc, continue to a salad course, a main course, a cheese course and a dessert. And then there is often coffee and chocolate passed round. The food is shared, discussed, compared, and a source of great pleasure- the emphasis is on the tastes and the french love to talk about it. Likewise with wine. You have to drink the appropriate wine with each course, and again it is a source of great discussion. The few times I opted for water during meal times it was a shocking decision to the french, and as Juliane's grandfather roared when he saw my glass- 'water?! you'll get ill from drinking that!'

The french are not unfriendly. Neither are they overly friendly or welcoming. Apt is a close knit community, of country folk, traditional provencal caricatures. I have been greeted with much suspicion this year, and at first I found it very difficult to integrate. Once I had taken the first step, and actively sought french company, and conversation, the families I met here could not have been more accommodating, friendly, welcoming and kind.

my family with Juliane's family

I could go on but I run the risk of writing a very lengthy, not very interesting blog post. What I really want to say is how grateful I am to the people who have taken me into their homes, week on week, shown me their region, their culture, and taught me their language. I have been very lucky to have met some very special families, that I hope very much to stay in touch with.

We have had a send off in style with Mum, Dad and Kate, eating more pain au chocolats than I care to mention, exploring and returning to some of our favourite places in this amazing region. Despite Dad's rather gloomy statement, 'when you've seen one French market, you've seen them all' we have done a rather good tour of markets in Provence, and we have lavender bags, olive wood, goats cheese, tapenade and honey to prove it (and possibly a few extra pounds). I have very happy memories of my last week here in Provence with them, and indeed with all of my visitors this year. I have had so much support from everyone at home- and want to thank everyone who has been reading this blog.

At the end of it all, I would say not that it's been the best experience of my life- but the most challenging, interesting, character building, inspiring seven months of my life. Some of my days here in France have been the hardest and loneliest ever- you can never underestimate how it feels to be constantly a guest in another culture, reminded everyday of your foreignness, struggling to grasp the language, making many embarrassing errors of language. But every day I have been able to find resources to carry on, to brighten a day, to build bridges and learn more about myself and this culture than I ever thought I would. More than anything I have had opportunities everywhere I've been, to travel, to learn, to meet people, to discover and to grow, and for that I just feel lucky. Lucky that I've had this chance, that I've lived here, met these people, learnt this culture, and that tomorrow I'm going home to see my dogs and my friends, and family.  

The Wrights and our ice creams

Visitors

I arrived back from Annecy, at Nimes station, and there I waited for my friend Rosie who was flying from Liverpool to Nimes to stay with me for four days (until Mum, Dad and Kate arrived). We hit up a cafe by the arena/ colosseum in Nimes (Nimes is often called the little Rome of France) and started catching up with hot chocolate. Later we got the train back from Nimes, the bus back from Avignon, and arrived back in Apt at 7.40 in time for tea. 

On Tuesday the weather dawned grey and grisly. We wandered through the farmers market in Apt, and then through the town, a steady wandering that took us to Chez Sylla, just in time for lunch. I've talked about Chez Sylla before- Becca and I went just before Christmas- and the second time did not disappoint. Chez Sylla is the wine cave where you can have a cheese tasting plate, a meat tasting plate, with a big salad, selection of breads, dessert, coffee and not one, not two, but three glasses of wine (all for 12euros). This leisurely lunch took some time, which was fine because clouds were threatening outside, and the more wine we had, the less walking we felt like down. Fortunately it is a bit of a hike back to the other end of town where I live, which sorted our heads out, and we crashed out on the bed, in a food/ wine/ tired coma. 

On Wednesday we started the day in Avignon, and took the bus to Isle-sur-la-Sorgue which is a little village, set on the place where five parts of the river meet, which makes it quite pretty to look at, and walk round. We stopped for a salad lunch by the riverside and then meandered on to Fountaine de Vaucluse, the village where the river's source is, and has beautiful views of the cliffside, and the river. By the time we had got the bus back to Apt, we were sporting some good 'bronzage' and half asleep.

Thursday was our last day together, and promised 24 degrees, so again, we spent the morning meandering, breakfasting, second-breakfasting, and drinking coffee. After lunch, we sunbathed, in the school gardens and then took the last bus back to Nimes. Because Rosies flight home was at 10.05am, the earliest bus from Apt wouldn't get us there in time, we booked a hotel for the night near the station. On Thursday night, we got ready and went out into Nimes for crepes (Rosie was going for the all round French experience) and wine in a bar. 

The three days we had together were all lovely, and again, it just makes me very grateful for the people that have come out to see me this year, it makes the whole experience infinitely better, to have things to look forward to and to show people around Apt. With it being so near the end, I have a collection of happy memories and photos of all my visitors this year, and can't quite say how much it has meant to have had them there with me.