This last week however, I had Hermione come and stay with me. She arrived Thursday night, having navigated the Paris metro, and Avignon- Apt changeover very successfully, and we went back to mine for tea, and strawberries and cream for pudding.
Friday we planned a day in Avignon, and got up for the earliest bus there. When we arrived a coffee and a croissant was in order before any of our days plans commenced. I started the usual tourist route, up to Place d'Horloge, and the Palais des Papes, to snap another picture from outside and trudge onwards. But Hermione suggested we go in and go round, which was a good idea because otherwise I would have spent my whole time here having just seen the Palace from the outside. Having just come back from Rome, it was especially amazing to then see the other seat of the papacy- and inside the palace elaborately decorated frescoes adorn the walls, like those in the Sistene Chapel. Frescoes, I learnt, are paintings done on wet plaster so they become a part of the walls and they are all very well restored in the Palais des Papes. It's a very well presented museum and well worth seeing- and I'm really glad we did it.
After the Palace we wandered up the hill behind, and stopped by the lake for a picnic lunch...tapenade, salami, bread, cheese, and olives, and then we set off down to the Pont D'Avignon. Our tickets to the Palace included a visit into the Pont D'Avignon, where we got audio guides (which tell the mythical story of the bridge) and we were allowed to cross. So now I can really say I've been 'sur le pont d'avignon..' and I have a picture to prove it!
We spent the later afternoon wandering round, finding postcards, doing some shopping, before we stopped at 'Fou de Fafa' a restaurant in Avignon, rated top on Tripadvisor, and run solely by an English couple. I had heard very good things about it, and had emailed the women to ask if it would be possible to go, in time to be out for our last bus to Apt at 8. They were very very welcoming and accommodating, having moved from the UK to live in Avignon four years ago...(not sure why they picked Avignon). I had a scallop soufflé with pea and mint puree, and then duck breast with strawberries and balsamic, and it was seriously good food. They served us quickly and were very friendly, and I have great plans to return with Mum, Dad and Kate. On the pudding menu was banoffee pie, dark chocolate cake and cream, and cinnamon and apple bread and butter pudding- all of which would feature in my top 5 desserts so a return trip will be a necessity.
Saturday dawned wet and horrid, unlucky for Hermione as we've just had two weeks bright sunshine and sky high temperatures! We wandered round the market which has perked up after its February dip, and lots of the tourist vendors were back...olives, lavender, soaps, tapenade have all made a comeback. I did hear several English and American accents at the market, so perhaps the tourist season is just beginning again. Hermione did very well and hauled all the best provencal specialities- and then we stopped and had a tea and a hot chocolate in one of my favourite cafes, scouted out by Daniel back in October. We ate our purchases for lunch, and then went back out into the rain and wandered round Apt, up into the hills to see my school on Tuesday, and back down round the town. The rain did rather cramp our style but for me to spend a weekend 'en famille' is what it's all about for me.
one of the wall paintings/ graffiti in Apt
Sunday morning came all too quickly and I felt a bit flat waving goodbye to Hermione on the bus. But then, I'm so lucky that everyone has tried to come and see me this year- it's been so uplifting for my spirits because no matter how kind and inclusive some of the french people I've met have been, there really is nothing like your own family and friends.
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