Aix-cetera

This weekend was the last weekend of relative free time...from today it doesn't really stop until the end. Friday, Alison and I went to Orange, hired bikes, and did a 30km bike ride round Chateauneuf du Pape. It was a pretty route through vineyards and the sun shone for us, but unfortunately the Mistral got up in full force and at some points it was like cycling through treacle it was that hard. In the evening I got back to Apt at 10.30, wind and sun blasted and fell straight asleep only to be woken by my alarm signalling the start of another busy day. 

the mountain behind in the legendary Mont Ventoux

I got showered and dressed quickly and set off to the market which was bustling with people- miles more than in March, and the whole Place opposite the school was filled with flowers, fruit and veg, cheese, hummus, baskets and other Provencal goodies. I just went to the fruit and veg stall and bought my veg for the week, plus asparagus and strawberries, and was given more spinach than I'll ever be able to eat by the vendor because I am so 'charmante.' After that, a quick dash to the supermarket and then back to my apartment to unpack everything and then pack my bag for a weekend with Juliane. It was already 9.30 and 19 degrees. 

Jean Philippe and Sylviane picked me up at 10 and took me to Juliane's. Juliane and I had planned a last weekend together before I go home. On arrival Juliane was still at work so I ate lunch with Emmanuel, Emmanuelle, Gaëlle and 'grand-père'; a huge platter of cured meats, salad, cheese, quiche, strawberries, lemon cake etc (plus we had martinis to go with..don't ask me why). We ate in the garden and the sun was hot, and then Emmanuel, Emmanuelle and I went together into Aix to meet up with Jean-Philippe and Sylviane, their son Xavier, his wife Helene, and their two little boys Martin and Remy. Then we all went back to a friend of Sylviane's for coffee and madeleines and je ne sais quoi. The apartment was a beautiful Aixois apartment, with cool tiled floors and a balcony dripping in flowers. I tried a bit of practising talking to the boys, but unfortunately picked the little one, Remy, who is a bit suspicious of all people except his mother and father. I asked him how old he was and he glowered at me through thick eyebrows before showing me four fingers. His mum asked him how old he thought I was. He considered briefly without much change in expression. 'Eleven?'

Aix- just another beautiful spot

Around six we got back in the car to head back to Juliane's and to pick up Gaëlle from her friends. No sooner had we knocked on the door of her friends, the mother was at the door, ushering us in, gesturing at the sun, suggesting an aperitif in the garden. And soon we had wine, and bruschetta and tapenade pushed in our hands, and we spent another hour and a half there. They were very interesting in me, 'la jeune fille anglaise' and asked lots of questions about my experience here. I got three glasses of wine poured for me, despite my protests, ('have you ever had this wine before?- then, you must try it!').

I was feeling a bit sleepy by the time we got back to Juliane's and we had a delicious dinner together, (I definitely just had water this time), and then we played articulate in French. (NOT easy). I learnt the words for lawnmower, hay, straw, road sign, and silver birch, which I perhaps won't use again but it was a good test of vocab nonetheless. After that it just about acceptable to retire to bed, my head spinning!

Sunday Juliane had the full day off. We had homemade croissants for breakfast, and then Juliane, Emmanuelle, Gaëlle and I set off down to the village for the annual 'Fête de la Chevre' (goat festival). Not quite up my street as it was basically a very large market of goats cheese, goats cheese tart, goats cheese sandwiches, goats cheese cake, etc etc but the village itself was very pretty and teeming with lots of people who we had to stop and give the obligatory three kisses, which passed the morning quite amicably. 

Rognes- the village where Juliane lives- so Provence

Then back to Juliane's for lunch (goats cheese and courgette tart....I ate every mouthful Mum) and in the afternoon Juliane and I went into Aix for a drink, and a 'chausson aux pommes' (apple pastry because I haven't yet tried one and apparently I HAD to try one) and then 'une glâce' and then we sat in the park for a while and chatted and enjoyed the sun. By the time we got back we were both bronzed (rouged on my side) and tired. Jean Phillippe and Sylviane had arrived, and before long grand-père did too, and we had champagne to start with. We had another large, delicious meal, and then Gaëlle (14) proposed a toast, to me. 

Jean Phillipe and grand-pere

She said what a lovely time they'd had with me three weekends ago in Montpellier, and again this weekend, and how sad they were to see me leave, and that she wished I could come with them 'to the mountains' this holiday. This almost made me tear up, and later when I got my things together and had to say goodbye to a family that have shown me such kindness in the last few months, I cried. I was very lucky to meet them, and they've taken me under their wing as one of their own, such utterly friendly and welcoming people that are rare to find. This, for me, as the experience begins to draw to a close, has been the highlight of a tough seven months in France- the generosity and hospitality and true kindness of the families I've been lucky enough to meet.

les TRACOLs- from the left, Juliane, grandpere, Emmanuel, Emmanuelle, Sylviane, Jean Philippe and Gaelle